Comprendre le cheveu, pour mieux le sublimer

07 Février 2020 | 15 commentaires

Comprendre le cheveu, pour mieux le sublimer

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LA STRUCTURE DU CHEVEU : PETITE LEÇON DE BIOLOGIE

Notre chevelure se compose de 100 000 à 150 000 cheveux. Chacun d’entre eux vit et meurt : c’est ce que l’on appelle le cycle pilaire. Ce cycle se divise en trois parties bien distinctes :

  • la phase « anagène » : c’est la période de croissance du cheveu. Durant cette phase le cheveu va grandir de 1 à 3 cm par mois
  • la phase « catagène » : durant cette phase, le cheveu cesse sa croissance, et le bulbe s’atrophie. Cette phase dure en moyenne 3 semaines
  • la phase « télogène » : c’est la dernière phase de vie du cheveu. Durant cette dernière, il va mourir, et tomber.

Ce cycle de vie du cheveu va s’étendre sur une durée pouvant aller jusqu’à 7 ans.

Si l’on se penche désormais sur la structure du cheveu, nous pouvons constater qu’il comprend deux parties : une racine (ou bulbe) qui est enfouie dans le cuir chevelu, et une tige capillaire, composée de kératine. Une vue en coupe de la tige du cheveu laisse apparaître trois strates :

  • La cuticule. Extrêmement fine, elle est composée de cellule disposée en « écailles de poisson » . Cette véritable gaine de protection va permettre aux cheveux d’être brillants, et soyeux. Lorsqu’elle est endommagée, elle n’assure plus sa mission de protection de la seconde strate du cheveu : le cortex.
  • Le cortex : il est la zone qui donne aux cheveux toute leur solidité. Il est formé de cellules allongées et reliées les unes aux autres par deux atomes de soufre. Parmi les cellules présentent dans le cortex figurent aussi des pigments de mélanine, qui donne leur couleur aux cheveux. Ces pigments peuvent être de deux types : soit granuleux, soit diffus. Les pigments granuleux offre des teintes allant du brun-rouge au noir intense. Les pigments diffus quant à eux couvrent une palette allant du brun roux au blond très clair. La couleur du cheveu est donc la résultante de ce mélange de pigments.
  • La moelle. Située au cœur du cheveu elle est présente de manière discontinue, elle peut même dans certains cas être totalement inexistante.

Tous les types de cheveux sont constitués de la même façon. Cependant, notre chevelure crépue ou frisée a quelques particularités.

LES PARTICULARITÉS DES CHEVEUX Métissés

Nous l’avons toutes constaté : nos cheveux crépus, frisés, bouclés (ou défrisés) sont bien plus vulnérables et fragiles que les cheveux de type européen ou asiatique.

Tout d’abord, et même si notre cheveu est structuré de la même façon qu’un cheveu de type européen, sa forme est bien plus aplatie que ce dernier. Autre différence et non des moindres, notre cheveu pousse en forme de spirale, et non de façon rectiligne. Cette forme spécifique, et le fait que nos cheveux poussent couchés le long de la peau du crâne, sont dus à une asymétrie naturelle du follicule pileux.

Cependant une des principales spécificités de nos cheveux est leur sècheresse, qui entraine une perte d’éclat et de solidité. Cet aspect sec, synonyme d’un manque d’hydratation est dû aux glandes sébacées, qui sont présentes sous le cuir chevelu et qui ne produisent pas assez de sébum. Substance d’apparence grasse, le sébum est un des composants du film hydrolipidique qui recouvre la tige du cheveu. Le sébum va emprisonner les molécules d’eau et de les répartir sur toute la longueur du cheveu. En quantité suffisante, il va assurer à toute la chevelure un aspect brillant, soyeux, et surtout souple. Par contre, et c’est le cas pour tous les cheveux frisés ou crépus, un manque de sébum va amoindrir l’épaisseur et le couvrant du précieux film hydrolipidique, qui ne pourra plus assurer sa mission lubrifiante et hydratante : le cheveu va alors manquer de solidité, et sera vulnérable à toutes les agressions extérieures quotidiennes. Ce manque de sébum est encore plus ressenti en Europe, où le manque de lumière et de chaleur tend ont anesthésié les glandes sébacées.

Si aucun soin n’est mis en œuvre pour protéger et stimuler les cheveux, des pellicules vont peu à peu apparaître. Attention : il est important de bien différencier les pellicules des cheveux européens des nôtres. Sur les chevelures de type européen, les pellicules sont grasses, essentiellement dus à l’excès de sébum. Les pellicules qui apparaissent sur nos cheveux quant à eux sont des desquamations, c’est-à-dire la perte de la couche superficielle du cuir chevelu. Les shampoings antipelliculaires « ordinaires » n’auront donc aucun effet sur nos cheveux.

LE LAVAGE DES CHEVEUX FRAGILES

Face à ces risques et aux conséquences parfois irrémédiables, il est important de prendre soin de ses cheveux fragiles. Le premier geste salutaire et réparateur reste indéniablement le shampoing.

Notre cheveu étant par essence sec, il se salit moins vite. Dès lors, leur lavage est moins fréquent et espacé d’une semaine. Les hommes pourront quant à eux se laver les cheveux plus souvent en choisissant un shampoing sans sulfate.

Avant chaque lavage des cheveux, il sera important de procéder à un démêlage méthodique : outre le fait de permettre lors du lavage une pénétration plus rapide du shampoing et de l’eau, ce démêlage va aussi permettre d’enlever impuretés, poussières et salissures. Mais savez-vous bien vous démêler les cheveux ? Voici mon conseil : commencez par les pointes, en tenant bien vos cheveux dans la main, et lissez-les de haut en bas, et progressivement brossez de plus en plus haut, jusqu’à atteindre les racines. Cette méthode permettra une meilleure répartition du si précieux sébum, mais aussi d’activer la repousse des cheveux.

Arrive enfin le moment du shampoing : avant de le commencer, il est important de prendre le temps de bien mouiller ses cheveux et de laisser l’eau atteindre et imprégner le cuir chevelu. Dès cette étape réalisée, le shampoing pourra être appliqué. Attention à ne pas trop en mettre, car il peut être ensuite difficile d’enlever les résidus laissés par ces derniers. Concernant le rinçage, il est bon de le réaliser à l’eau froide. Sous l’effet d’une basse température, les écailles du cheveu vont se resserrer : effets tonique, brillant et éclatant garanti !

Enfin, n’oubliez pas que l’hydratation de nos cheveux  est primordiale dès le moindre brossage ou coiffage: elle va prévenir de la casse. Il conviendra d’éviter d’utiliser l’ensemble des produits contenant de la vaseline. Bien loin de nourrir les cheveux, la vaseline (ou petrolatum) asphyxie et étouffe le cheveu, et provoque même l’apparition de pellicules ! Attention danger !

LE SHAMPOING MAGIC À LA KÉRATINE SJR

Afin de garantir à nos cheveux une bonne santé, et une vitalité, avec le shampoing « Magic » sans sulfate à la kératine. disponible sur mon site internet, ce shampoing a tout été conçu pour respecter la spécificité de nos cheveux.

Testé sous contrôle médical, il ne contient pas de sulfate ni de paraben, et est particulièrement recommandé pour les cheveux pour lesquels un défrisage des colorations mèches ou un lissage brésilien a été fait. Il va empêcher la destruction de la kératine. Ce soin intense va nourrir en profondeur les cheveux défrisés, secs et terne.

 Un autre atout de ce shampoing Magic  SJR est sa texture : ce shampoing va se transformer en une mousse onctueuse simple à appliquer, et qui va respecter la fibre capillaire et le cuir chevelu.

Nous aborderons très prochainement dans ce blog divers sujets qui nous concernent toutes : la chute des cheveux, le protocole de soins pour les  cheveux des enfants. Nous répondrons aussi à toutes vos questions relatives au lissage brésilien et au défrisage des cheveux.

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    Bonjour à tous
    Je fais ce témoignage car grâce au médium Comlan Amangnon j'ai récupéré mon homme,l'amour de ma vie.
    Notre séparation a été brusque sur un coup de tête,il était très influencé par les membres de sa famille.C'est alors dans mon désespoir que j'ai fait une rencontre magnifique,celui du médium marabout Comlan Amangnon.Il a su percevoir par sa voyance,ce que nous avons vécu,la cause de nos problèmes et de notre séparation mon chéri et moi.Amangnon a proposé faire pour moi un rituel de retour affectif de l'être aimé de 7 jours .Vu la situation et la façon dont il m'a quitté,je n'aurais pu jamais croire qu'il reviendrait un jour dans ma vie mais au bout de 5 jours,il m'a appelé juste pour me dire que je lui manquais beaucoup et qu'il voulait me revoir.Et c'est ainsi que nous nous sommes réconciliés de nouveau.Nous vivons à présent une belle histoire d'amour et pleine de confiance.Je recommande le médium marabout Comlan Amangnon à tous ceux qui sont dans le besoin.
    Vous pouvez le joindre via mail: contact.maitreamangnon@yahoo.com ou par téléphone +229 97 78 87 91(joignable sur whatsApp)

  • Par lamourdemavie | 20/12/2022

    J'ai pensé que l'offre était trop belle pour être vraie,mais après avoir reçu une réponse,j'ai tout de suite réalisé que c'était possible alors je l'ai fait commencer.J'ai déjà foutu mon mariage dans la merde et il ne montrait aucun signe de vie avant que je ne tombe sur les coordonnées du Maître COMLAN AMANGNON pour toute résolution positive pour moi.Quelques jours seulement après le début des travaux,mon mari me suppliait d'oublier toute la situation et de faire table rase sur le passé! Mon mari est vraiment têtu et j'avais déjà commandé plus d'une douzaine de rituels de retour affectif chez d'autres marabouts,des médiums et des prêtresses vaudous pour essayer de le faire revenir en vain,j'avais déjà perdu beaucoup d'argent.Avec le médium COMLAN AMANGNON comme il le dit,à 100%,le travail a marché et mon mari est revenu.
    Je le recommande vivement à tous ceux qui ont vraiment besoin d'aide.

    Son adresse mail: contact.maitreamangnon@yahoo.com

    Tel/whatsApp: +229 9778 8791

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